Domaine Matassa – Blanc (Côtes Catalanes)
Type: Skin-Contact White (Orange Wine)
Skin-Contact White (Orange Wine) means a white wine made using red wine methods. Instead of pressing the grapes immediately, the juice ferments on the skins, gaining color, texture, and subtle tannins. The result is a wine with more grip and personality—somewhere between a white and a light red—perfect for people looking for depth and freshness in the same glass.
Grapes: Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Muscat d’Alexandrie, Muscat à Petits Grains
This Blend is a reflection of both Catalan heritage and Mediterranean balance. Each variety brings something distinct, and together they form the backbone of this bottle: textured, aromatic, and quietly electric.
Grenache Gris: A pale-skinned mutation of Grenache Noir, native to the south of France and northeastern Spain. It thrives in schist and limestone soils, as well as in dry, windy climates like those found in Roussillon. Grenache Gris gives the wine structure, subtle spice, and mineral depth, it’s the grounding element that gives Matassa’s whites their tactile, savory texture.
Macabeu: A traditional Catalan grape also known as Viura in Spain, Macabeu adds body and softness, with gentle notes of orchard fruit and dried flowers. When grown at altitude, it retains a quiet freshness that balances the weight of skin contact. It’s the grape that connects Roussillon to its cross-border Catalan roots.
Muscat d’Alexandrie: An ancient, aromatic variety believed to have originated in North Africa, Muscat d’Alexandrie thrives in sunny Mediterranean climates. It brings floral lift, citrus zest, and perfume to the blend. Traditionally used for sweet wines in Roussillon, here it’s vinified dry—adding elegance and fragrance without excess richness.
Muscat à Petits Grains: A finer, higher-acid cousin of Muscat d’Alexandrie, this variety contributes definition, brightness, and precision. Its aromas lean toward jasmine, bergamot, and white peach, making it the perfect counterpoint to the riper, more tropical character of the Alexandrie.
The Producer
Domaine Matassa sits high in the Côtes Catalanes, in the Roussillon region of southern France, near the Pyrenees and the Spanish border. Founded in 2003 by Tom Lubbe, a South African–born winemaker who once worked under the legendary Gérard Gauby, Matassa quickly became a benchmark for natural wine across Europe.
Tom moved to France in the early 2000s after marrying Nathalie Gauby and began farming a few forgotten plots of old vines in the hills above Calce. What started as a small, experimental project soon grew into one of the most respected natural wine estates in France. His focus has always been on purity and energy—working biodynamically, avoiding chemicals, and letting the old bush vines and rugged soils speak for themselves.
Today, Matassa farms roughly 15 hectares of vineyards planted with ancient Catalan varieties, mostly on schist, marl, and limestone soils. The Mediterranean climate, high elevation, and cool mountain breezes give his wines their distinctive tension and freshness, even in such a sun-drenched region.
Viticulture & Vinification
Region: Calce, Roussillon, France
Farming: Certified organic and biodynamic, no herbicides or synthetic treatments
Vineyards: Old bush vines (gobelet-trained), grown on schist and marl soils
Harvest: Manual, with meticulous sorting in the vineyard
Vinification: Grapes are destemmed and left to ferment spontaneously with their skins, extracting color and texture
Fermentation: Native yeasts only, no temperature control
Élevage: Aged in a mix of neutral barrels and concrete tanks
Clarification: Unfined, unfiltered
Sulfur: Minimal to none, depending on the cuvée
Production: Small, artisanal quantities
This is, without question, one of the best skin-contact wines I’ve ever had. Compared to the Austrian bottle I wrote about earlier, this feels like a true step up an intermediate-level orange wine that’s more complex on the palate yet remains incredibly easy to drink. The balance between the grapes is remarkable: freshness, floral lift, and zesty brightness all come together effortlessly. It’s not an entry-level bottle, but it’s one that anyone can enjoy, especially on a warm summer day when you want something both intriguing and refreshing.
